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Korea and Her Neighbors - Isabella L. BIRD

In this book, Isabella L. Bird, who had been elected a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society only 2 years prior, describes her travels through Korea from 1894 - 1897 in her well-known style. She went on lengthy trips through the interior of what is today both North- and South Korea and vividly describes the landscapes, people and customs of the "Hermit Kingdom".

Isabella's sojourn coincided with a time of great turmoil in Korea. Shortly after her arrival, the Japanese occupied the country, ostensibly to protect their expatriate community. But when relations worsend further, Isabella was forced to flee, first to Manchuria, and, after the outbreak of the first Sino-Japanese War (1894 - 1895), to Russia. She returned to Korea only days after the assassination of Queen Min in October 1895, and saw King Gojong reduced to a mere "salaried automaton" until he fled to the Russian Legation in 1896. Isabella, having had several audiences with the monarchs throughout her stay in Seoul, gives a first hand account of the political and governmental changes throughout this time.

Altogether, this is a fascinating account of Korea at a time when the country was not only torn between tradition and modernisation, but also found herself a pawn of Japan, China, and Russia, all vying for control in the Far East. (Summary by Availle)
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Preface and Author's Prefatory NoteIntroductory ChapterI. First Impressions of KoreaII. First Impressions of the CapitalIII. The Kur-dongIV. Seoul, the Korean MeccaV. The Sailing of the SampanVI. On the River of Golden SandVII. Views AfloatVIII. Natural Beauty - The RapidsIX. Korean Marriage CustomsX. The Korean Pony - Korean Roads and InnsXI. Diamond Mountain MonasteriesXII. Along the Coast - Part 1XII. Along the Coast - Part 2XIII. Impending War - Excitement at ChemulpoXIV. Deported to ManchuriaXV. A Manchurian Deluge - A Passenger Cart - An AccidentXVI. Mukden and its MissionsXVII. Chinese Troops on the MarchXVIII. Nagasaki - WladivostokXIX. Korean Settlers in SiberiaXX. The Trans-Siberian RailroadXXI. The King's Oath - An AudienceXXII. A Transition StageXXIII. The Assassination of the QueenXXIV. Burial CustomsXXV. Song-do: A Royal CityXXVI. The Phyong-yang BattlefieldXXVII. Northward Ho!XXVIII. Over the An-kil Yung PassXXIX. Social Position of WomenXXX. Exorcists and Dancing WomenXXXI. The Hair-cropping EdictXXXII. The Reorganised Korean GovernmentXXXIII. Education and Foreign TradeXXXIV. Daemonism or ShamanismXXXV. Notes on Daemonism ConcludedXXXVI. Seoul in 1897XXXVII. Last Words on Korea
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